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The Guitar Medic

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Instrument Case Repair and Alteration                          ®
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I have been repairing cases sort of as a side thing, ever since I began repairing stringed instruments. But I always did it as a favor, or as a side issue. Cases are cheap, and usually people can go buy a new nice hard case for $50-$150. However, for those cases you want repaired or altered I now am offering this as a service, beginning in November 2014. Not all cases are worth repairing but if you have an old case that came with your guitar or that came from the factory, you may wish to invest in repairing it.
 
Cases have latches, lining, etc. that just wear out or break. Covering becomes separated, handles fall off or break, and sometimes the case comes apart at the seams.  Sometimes a guitar may not fit quite right, but could fit nicely with a minor alteration. These items are usually easily fixed, and if you have a unique case (such as the ones that 70's Yamaha guitars came in, or an old Gibson case), you may wish to invest the money to have it repaired.  I can do that for you.  Look me up. Contact me HERE.
 
I started documenting some of the repairs in 2014. Prior to that I have very few photos of case repairs. The latest one is the one mentioned above--a vintage Yamaha case. Look in the menu at left for examples. As I continue this endeavor and accumulate photos, I will post them there for you to see the quality of work.
 
If you have a vintage case, and it isn't what it used to be, it might be able to be restored--for less than you might think. Keep me in mind. You can contact me via the "Contact Me" link in the left menu.
 
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My first repair job on cases was for a school corporation. I had about 40 cases to repair. To make this cost-effective, I charged $20 each. This made the investment of time worthwhile because the job was large, and the time spent on each case was about 30 minutes. I used two cans of the brush-on Plasti-Dip. This stuff is great. It is not really plastic, but is a flexible rubberized coating. If applied to a clean surface, it is quite durable. At each tear, the first step is to trim away the frayed material, and make the missing area a nice clean cut. Then the area must be cleaned thoroughly. I use 90% alcohol to clean. It evaporates quickly and thoroughly. I then paint on the Plasti-Dip, and I dab the surface to match the rough surface of the case. After it dries (about 1-2 hours) I check for thorough coverage. After 24 hours, I go over it with black shoe dye. I allow the black shoe dye to dry for 24 hours. Then I apply black shoe paste. After the shoe paste dries (about 1 hour) I buff it with a shoe brush. This makes the surface like new.