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Ovation CS Model 6-String Acoustic/Electric (unknown model, label missing)
Broken Neck
December 2013
This was a bad break. Not only was the neck broken, but the fretboard was loose from the neck wood, and the area of the break was splintered apart and heavily damaged. I didn't take photos before removing the strings and tuners. I started the photos after I had a) removed the tuning machines, b) removed the nut, and c) separated the remaining headstock from the neck, to begin repair.  I picked up the guitar on 11/26/2013, and got started on it on 12/2/2013. It took a lot more time than I originally thought, but heck...I love doing this work!

December 2 Beginning Work:
I began working on this on December 2. First I tried to re-align the splintered wood to see how I could fit it back together. In many ways this is similar to working a jig-saw puzzle. If you can fit each small splintered area back where it was originally, you can effect a great-looking repair. However, this is the challenge.
 
Below you can see photos of the area discussed, after I separated the remaining few pieces that were holding on the headstock to the fretboard, then put it back into position to take these photos. The first four show the break:

PHOTO 1 (Above): Put back in place, the headstock appears to not fit exactly.

PHOTO 2 (Above): Some of the wood splintering exhibited blunt crushed ends. As many of these as possible need to be straightened. If unable to straighten the blunt ends, small pieces will need to be cut away.

PHOTO 3 (Above): The extent of the splintering in the headstock can be seen here.

PHOTO 4 (Above): The splintering of the neck is difficult to see in this photo because most of it Is inside. However, it is still less severe than the removed headstock

 

Below, you can see that I have glued and clamped the splintered headstock (seen in Photo 3 above) and allowing the glue to set up.

PHOTO 5 (Above): The excess glue in the splintered area had to be cleaned out thoroughly to insure none remained behind. This would otherwise prevent a good fit back to the neck when that time comes.

PHOTO 6 (Above): View from the front as the headstock, clamped between wood blocks, dries.

December 4 Glued Fretboard:
In PHOTO 2 above, you can see how the fretboard was separated from the neck. Also, there was epoxy holding the end of the truss rod in place. All of this was separated, and the epoxy had come out in a chunk. To ensure that the truss rod works when tightened, the epoxy had to be replaced. I used wood glue on the fretboard--and epoxy on the truss rod end. I had spent the day on December 3 making the cawls for the neck, in anticipation of this gluing and clamping of the fretboard. They worked well. The ones seen on top are lined with cork to prevent marring the neck. The ones that contact the fretboard were contoured to match the 15" radius of the fretboard.

PHOTO 7 (Above):  Getting glue to make full contact is key, then clamping to insure even pressure on the fretboard is important. Left to dry for several hours.

 
December 5 Headstock In Place:
In the below two photos, the headstock has been glued in and clamped to dry. This work was on Dec 5 at 12:30 AM. Figured it would be good to do this before crashing for the evening, then in the morning it will be all ready to remove clamping. Went together very nicely! Preparation is everything.

PHOTO 8 (Above): Glue applied, headstock inserted, and then clamped. I use plastic cards (salvage stuff mostly) to prevent glue from sticking to the wood cawls or to the clamp feet.

PHOTO 9 (Above): Seen from the front side, you can see the thin line of glue where the fretboard meets the headstock. This all went back together nice...just like working a jig-saw puzzle!

 

 

December 5 Work Continues
Photos below shows the neck after filling cavities and refinishing with satin polyurethane.