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The Guitar Medic

By Appointment
Repair and Restoration
1898 Mandolin
Washburn D10S
Oscar Schmidt OF2
1900s Tenor Banjo
Yamaha FG-230 12-String
1970 Stella H927
1970 Harmony H165-1
Gibson Blueridge
1970's Conn F-11
Conn C-60
Conn F-2112
Gibson Classical C-1
Yamaha F325 Hole Repair
Yamaha FD01S
Ibanez Electric
Yamaha FG550
Yamaha FG300 Restore
Ovation Broken Neck
Yamaha FG300 Minor Repair
Framus 5/68 Restoration
Epiphone Hummingbird
Alembic Bass
Yamaha FG180-1
Alvarez 5024
Holzbauer Conn F2712
56 Fender DuoSonic Restor
Martin DM1 Trainwreck
Conn F100 Neck Set
Conn F-27 Cracked Bridge
SX Bass Headstock Reshap
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Yamaha model F325 Repair Hole in Side Wood near Neck 

This Yamaha was in the shop for a simple string change. I had patched plenty of holes where the piece that was displaced was still available, and had filled wide cracks in vintage guitars with fresh spruce--aged to match the existing spruce. But I had done limited repairs of outright holes where the "knock-out" piece was missing.
The owner of this guitar (the Brownsburg School Corporation) was only paying for a set-up and string change, but I decided to do this complimentary repair. How much worse could a patched hole be than the hole itself???!!!
First, I made a backing patch to give myself something to secure to. I used this neat tool made by Mike of Brownsburg Guitar (he saw something similar on the internet, but made his own version of it--which works marvelously!!!).  The trick was to make the backing piece of mahogany--bent to fit the contour of the existing bend. I secured it in place using the tool Mike gave me.
After drying, I made a "plug" from the same mahogany piece--drawing the general shape of the hole, and shaping it with a Dremmel tool--mounted with a sanding drum.  I cut out the rough shape using my band saw, and finished it with the Dremel--checking fit frequently.
I filled the hole with epoxy, and placed the "plug" into place, and put epoxy over the top--and held it in position until it cured, using my home-made guitar holding tool.
6/14/2013 --NOT YET STARTED:  After a full day of curing (manufacturer states 1 hour for full cure, but I AM NOT THAT TRUSTING!!!) I began smooting the epoxy using a file to remove the major high places. then a finer file, and finally sandpaper.